What Nobody Tells You About the Greek Islands Sun

What Nobody Tells You About the Greek Islands Sun

Mid-July, day two of my Naxos stay, and I’m peeling a tank top off my shoulder in a whitewashed guesthouse near Agios Prokopios beach when the fabric snags skin and I suck air through my teeth loud enough that my travel companion spins around from clear across the room. My shoulders weren’t merely pink — … Read more

What Nobody Tells You About Russian Banya Etiquette

What Nobody Tells You About Russian Banya Etiquette

Most first-timers assume a Russian banya is basically a hotter Finnish sauna with better branding — that assumption falls apart within about ninety seconds of walking through the cedar door. Dmitri, my guide’s contact in Moscow and a man who’d clearly done this a thousand times, handed me a felt hat shaped like a wizard’s … Read more

What Nobody Tells You About Budapest’s Thermal Baths

What Nobody Tells You About Budapest's Thermal Baths

Four seconds. That’s how long I had to decide whether to do something reckless before the whole scene disappeared for good. I was chest-deep in one of the outdoor pools at Széchenyi, watching my own breath merge with the steam rising off 38°C water into a frozen Budapest January, when an elderly Hungarian gentleman began … Read more

What Nobody Tells You About Your First Turkish Hammam

What Nobody Tells You About Your First Turkish Hammam

Skip the guesswork on what to wear before you go, or you’ll spend your first ten minutes at the hammam paralyzed by a scrap of fabric instead of actually relaxing. That’s exactly what happened to me at Çemberlitaş Hamamı, where the cloth handed to me at the door was about the size of a large … Read more

The Complete First-Time International Travel Guide

The Complete First-Time International Travel Guide

Somewhere on the internet right now, one article is telling first-timers to “just wing it” and trust that everything sorts itself out at the airport, while another insists you need a spreadsheet, three backup plans, and a laminated itinerary before you’re allowed to board a plane. The wing-it crowd is wrong. Not because spontaneity is … Read more