Dress Code for Ayios Paisios Monastery in Souroti

Dress Code for Ayios Paisios Monastery in Souroti

A nun at the gate glances down at my ankles, and I already know what she’s about to say before she opens her mouth. This happened on my first walk up to Ayios Paisios — the Holy Monastery of St. John the Theologian in Souroti — while traveling with a group of pilgrims from Thessaloniki, … Read more

Greek Island Day Trips from Piraeus: No Passport Required

Greek Island Day Trips from Piraeus: No Passport Required

Everyone assumes a proper Greek island requires a multi-day commitment and a ferry schedule you’ll come to regret. That’s simply not true, and I figured it out standing on the packed Monastiraki platform, watching yet another tour group trudge toward the Acropolis souvenir stalls for what felt like the third time that week. A Greek … Read more

What Nobody Tells You About the Greek Islands Sun

What Nobody Tells You About the Greek Islands Sun

Mid-July, day two of my Naxos stay, and I’m peeling a tank top off my shoulder in a whitewashed guesthouse near Agios Prokopios beach when the fabric snags skin and I suck air through my teeth loud enough that my travel companion spins around from clear across the room. My shoulders weren’t merely pink — … Read more

How I Stopped Staring Blankly at Meteora

How I Stopped Staring Blankly at Meteora

Most people walk into Meteora assuming the view does all the work — that six monasteries balanced on 400-meter sandstone towers will explain themselves just by being visually stunning. They won’t. I found that out standing in the courtyard of the Great Meteoron monastery, high above the Thessalian plains, staring at something I couldn’t actually … Read more

Best Mediterranean Food Festivals to Attend This Spring

Best Mediterranean Food Festivals to Attend This Spring

Confession up front: no museum has ever dictated where I fly. A slow-roasted suckling pig turning over open flame for four straight days in a Sardinian village, though — that’s rearranged an entire spring itinerary of mine without a second thought. So if you’re the type who treats a dinner reservation as a legitimate cultural … Read more