I was standing at 4,215 meters above sea level, gasping at the top of Dead Woman’s Pass, arms raised in triumph like every hiker before me — and I had absolutely no idea my face was being destroyed. That was Day 2 of the Inca Trail, the famous climb to Warmiwañusqa, and the Andean sun … Read more
It was 5:17am and I was standing in near-darkness on the Talinguru Nyakunytjaku sunrise viewing platform, coffee-less, slightly underdressed, and surrounded by about forty other bleary-eyed travellers who had all made the same pre-dawn pilgrimage. Then Uluru happened. The rock — all 348 metres of it — began its slow, extraordinary transformation: charcoal to bruised … Read more
Nobody warned me about the white. I mean, everyone tells you Santorini is white — you’ve seen the postcards, the Instagram feeds, the travel magazine covers. But there is a profound difference between knowing a place is white and standing inside it at noon in July when the temperature has climbed to 34°C (93°F), the … Read more
