Iceland Summer vs Winter Travel Experience: Which Wins?

Iceland Summer vs Winter Travel Experience: Which Wins?

“Just wing the season, Iceland’s stunning either way” — I heard some version of that from at least three different backpackers before my first trip, usually delivered with the confidence of someone who’d only ever seen the place in July. It’s terrible advice. I’ve had a family picnicking on rocks beside me at Skógafoss at … Read more

How I Stopped Getting Sandblasted at Iceland’s Waterfalls

How I Stopped Getting Sandblasted at Iceland's Waterfalls

“You won’t need anything special for the waterfalls—just bring a rain jacket,” a fellow traveler told me before my first Iceland trip, and I believed her right up until I was standing at Skógafoss in June (Iceland’s version of summer) getting worked over by what amounted to a horizontal hurricane aimed squarely at my face. … Read more

How I Survived Iceland’s Ring Road Without Dying

How I Survived Iceland's Ring Road Without Dying

Eight percent — that’s what the battery icon on my phone read, flashing red, while the map app still counted off 47 kilometers to the next town. I’d landed on a nameless stretch of Route 1 between Egilsstaðir and Mývatn, up in Iceland’s northeast, on a piece of road that stops feeling like a road … Read more