I was standing in the middle of Oaxaca’s Central de Abastos market at 2 p.m., sweat running down my temples, holding a paper cup of agua fresca that a vendor had just prepared in front of me. The drink was electric pink, impossibly cold, and topped with what looked like crushed ice. I was thirsty. … Read more
I watched the red helicopter circle twice over the Bright Angel Trail before it dropped lower, its rotors kicking up dust that hung in the June heat like a warning nobody had heeded. It was 2 p.m., 104°F in the inner canyon, and somewhere down there a hiker was being loaded onto a stretcher. I … Read more
The GPS on my iPhone read 47 kilometers to the next town. The battery icon flashed red: 8%. I was somewhere between Egilsstaðir and Mývatn in northeast Iceland, on a stretch of Route 1 that felt less like a road and more like the edge of the world. Fog so thick I could barely see … Read more
I was standing in the courtyard of the Great Meteoron monastery, 400 meters above the Thessalian plains, when it hit me: I had absolutely no idea what I was looking at. The frescoes covering the walls—saints with halos, scenes of martyrdom, intricate theological symbolism—meant nothing to me. They were beautiful in the way that old … Read more
The moment I’ll never forget happened approximately 3.2 seconds after the Jadrolinija catamaran hit the wave. I was standing at the bow railing during the Split-to-Hvar ferry crossing—my favorite photography perch on the entire Adriatic—when the boat suddenly pitched forward and a wall of salt spray exploded over the open deck. I’m not exaggerating when … Read more
It was 8:47 a.m. at the Grand Palace, and I was already wondering if I was about to pass out. Not because of the architectural splendor—though the gilded spires and intricate temple roofs were genuinely breathtaking. But because I was wearing long pants, a long-sleeved shirt buttoned to my collarbone, and closed-toe shoes, all adhering … Read more
There is a moment, somewhere between your first sip of a Wiener Melange and the third time a waiter glides past your marble table without once suggesting you order something else, when you understand that Vienna has figured out something the rest of the world has not. Sitting in a Viennese coffee house is not … Read more
Let me tell you about the exact moment I lost all self-control in Poland. I was standing in the middle of Mały Rynek — Kraków’s Small Market Square — surrounded by steaming pots, the smell of butter-fried dough hanging in the warm August air, a paper plate in each hand, and absolutely no regrets. That … Read more
Let me be honest with you: I have never once cared about the countdown. The ball drop, the confetti, the chorus of “Auld Lang Syne” sung by people who don’t know the words — none of it moves me. But tell me there’s a market stall in Kyoto selling handmade soba at midnight, or that … Read more
Let me be honest with you: I do not plan trips around museums, historical landmarks, or even beaches. I plan them around food. And December? December is the single greatest month on the planet for food-obsessed travelers who want an excuse to eat their weight in carbs while pretending it’s all “cultural enrichment.” The best … Read more
