I’d been to beaches on four continents. I knew how to read a wave, reapply sunscreen, and find shade before noon. I was not, by any reasonable definition, a beach rookie. And yet there I was, forty-five minutes into my first morning at Bondi Beach, Sydney, peeling myself off a hired beach towel with the … Read more
The beach patrol officer wasn’t aggressive about it. He was polite, even apologetic, in the way that made the whole thing more confusing rather than less. I was standing on JBR Beach in Dubai — one of the most tourist-packed stretches of sand in the UAE — in a swimsuit that I genuinely thought was … Read more
I still remember the exact moment I knew I was in trouble. It was day two on Naxos, mid-July, and I was peeling off my tank top in our little whitewashed guesthouse near Agios Prokopios beach. The fabric caught on my shoulder and I hissed through my teeth — a sound so sharp my travel … Read more
The trail had looked innocent enough on the map — a thin blue line winding down from the pine-covered cliffs above Brač island in Croatia, promising a “secluded cove” about forty minutes from the car park. I was sweaty, slightly sunburned on my shoulders, and carrying exactly the right amount of water for one person … Read more
The moment I realized I had absolutely no idea what I’d agreed to was when Dmitri handed me a felt hat shaped like a wizard’s cone and said, cheerfully, “Put this on. It protects your brain.” We were standing outside the parilka — the steam room — at Moscow’s legendary Sanduny Banya, and the thermometer … Read more
I had exactly four seconds to make the decision. Standing chest-deep in the steaming outdoor pool at Széchenyi Baths, the January fog curling off the 38°C water into the frozen Budapest air, I watched an elderly Hungarian man arrange his chess pieces on the floating board between us with the calm of someone who had … Read more
The moment is seared into my memory with the same intensity as the löyly steam that caused it. I’m standing in the doorway of a wooden lakeside sauna cabin outside Tampere, wearing my sensible navy swim trunks, towel draped over one shoulder like I’d prepared for this. My Finnish colleague Mikko turns around from the … Read more
It’s 11:47pm and I’m standing in the women’s locker room of Dragon Hill Spa in Seoul, holding a neatly folded set of bright orange shorts and a matching t-shirt, completely unsure of what happens next. A Korean grandmother to my left has already stripped down to absolutely nothing without a second thought. A teenage girl … Read more
The thin checkered cloth they handed me at the entrance to Çemberlitaş Hamamı was roughly the size of a large dish towel. A man in a white apron gestured toward the changing cubicles, said something in Turkish, and disappeared. I stood there holding what I’d later learn was a pestemal — the traditional Turkish bath … Read more
I still remember standing at the international departures gate for the very first time, passport gripped so tightly my knuckles went white. I had no idea what I was doing. Nobody had handed me a real first time international travel guide — just a printout from a travel forum and a vague sense of adventure. … Read more
