How I Stopped Getting Sandblasted at Iceland’s Waterfalls

How I Stopped Getting Sandblasted at Iceland's Waterfalls

“You won’t need anything special for the waterfalls—just bring a rain jacket,” a fellow traveler told me before my first Iceland trip, and I believed her right up until I was standing at Skógafoss in June (Iceland’s version of summer) getting worked over by what amounted to a horizontal hurricane aimed squarely at my face. … Read more

How I Survived Iceland’s Ring Road Without Dying

How I Survived Iceland's Ring Road Without Dying

Eight percent — that’s what the battery icon on my phone read, flashing red, while the map app still counted off 47 kilometers to the next town. I’d landed on a nameless stretch of Route 1 between Egilsstaðir and Mývatn, up in Iceland’s northeast, on a piece of road that stops feeling like a road … Read more

How I Stopped Staring Blankly at Meteora

How I Stopped Staring Blankly at Meteora

Most people walk into Meteora assuming the view does all the work — that six monasteries balanced on 400-meter sandstone towers will explain themselves just by being visually stunning. They won’t. I found that out standing in the courtyard of the Great Meteoron monastery, high above the Thessalian plains, staring at something I couldn’t actually … Read more

Vienna Coffee House Culture: The Only Guide You Need

Vienna Coffee House Culture: The Only Guide You Need

What actually makes a Viennese coffee house different from, say, a Parisian café or an Italian espresso bar? The honest answer: nobody is trying to turn your table over. Order a Wiener Melange, watch a waiter glide past your marble-topped table for the third time without so much as a glance toward the door, and … Read more